Janet's Star Trek Voyager SiteRobert Blackman: Star Trek Night on BBC2, screenshot by Janet

LESSON 8 - DRESS FOR SUCCESS
page 2 Robert 'Bob' Blackman, costume designer,
talks about Starfleet uniforms -
[Voyager] and non-[Voyager].

Adapted from ST Monthly.
Words by Robert Blackman are in this color.

Click linked images to see them full-size.

 

source ST MonthlyAs regards the history of uniform designing, in the beginning: "William Ware Theiss designed costumes on [TOS] and then he did the first year of [TNG]. The second season, he left and Dorinda Rice Wood came on. She had done a lot of features and headed back into feature-land. I came on early overlapping her tour of duty to just redesign the uniforms. Comfort was the number one thing - because they were made out of jumbo spandex, which is a nylon-polyester fabric, they retained heat. They also retained both body odour and cleaning odour, though we found a way around that eventually. The greatest discomfort was the pressure on the shoulders." A background in designing for theatre and dance troupes (Blackman got his start at the University of Texas, studied at Yale then worked with stage companies like the Ahmanson Theater in Los Angeles and San Francisco's American Conservatory Theater) gave him some insight into the problem. "The original [TNG] uniforms are like unitards - they have a zipper up the front, but they're made out of a stretch fabric. The costumes would bag out at the knee, in the feet, in the elbow - where you flex, where there was an extra stretch. So, in order to correct that, they would shorten what we call 'the girth,' the length from crotch to neck. Actually, when [the actors] wore them for long periods of time, they would actually have marks on their neck from the pressure of the garment. What I discerned was that [the cast] would like a two-piece. They would like to be able to take the top half off when they were rehearsing and then they would just put a jacket on at the end."

source: see SECTION ABBREVIATIONS
[TOS: Season 3: Wink Of An Eye]
source: see SECTION ABBREVIATIONS
[TOS: Season 3: Spectre Of The Gun]
apart from differences in early episodes, notably [TOS: Where No Man Has Gone Before], the series opener, the same style of uniform was worn throughout the series, except that Captain Kirk sometimes wears two different styles of wrap-around top.

source ST MonthlyIn addition to comfort, there was a plot purpose for the redesign. "The original one-piece uniform just kept looking too childlike to me. I kept thinking, 'This is a group of scientists that are out meeting people and they look a little too playful.' I tried to emulate the one-piece, thinking, 'We'll make it form-fit - we'll make it out of something that breathes, like wool, though not necessarily less warm, you don't feel like you're in a sauna suit. Then we'll see what we can do about this collar and the yoke and see if we can find a way to give it a little bit more formality.' So I started playing around with familiar military images, all done with drawing and, of course, Rick Berman. None of this is done on my own. I got into the Eisenhower jacket, and I just kept modifying it until it got to the shape that we are familiar with. Gates [Gates McFadden plays Dr Beverly Crusher] has a lot of dance history, and Marina [Marina Sirtis plays Counsellor Deanna Troi and has guest-starred in several [Voyager] stories too] works very hard to keep her physical form the way it is. They didn't want anything that was going to bulk them out, so we kept them in the Spandex, but we made some alterations. Stretch fabrics come in what are called two-way stretch or four-way stretch: two-way stretch means that it either stretches up and down or left and right, but it doesn't do both. Four-way stretch means that it does both. Spandex doesn't do that. And it hit me, like one of those things, you're in the show- er and, 'Oh, my God, now I know what it is!' They had run the stretch up and down the body on those uniforms originally. We just turned the fabric around, shifted it 45 degrees or 90 degrees, and we found out we could do these amazing contour outfits and they looked terrific." This knowledge served Blackman in good stead in designing the female Vulcan T'Pol's costume for [Enterprise], which is made of a unique fabric. "It's shades of brown, grey and black eighth-inch lines. But it's woven, so it's on both sides. Just as with Jeri Ryan's fabrics, it is key to find stuff that has a 'good return,' which means when you stretch it out, it goes back exactly to the size it was."

source: see SECTION ABBREVIATIONS
[TNG: Season 2: Where Silence Has Lease]
this uniform was worn for Seasons 1 and 2

[TNG] ensemble cast in Season 3-7 uniforms; publicity shot

design drawings for Season 1 [TNG] uniforms:
Red alert: The picture below is 102Kb.
picture source AOST

source AOST

 

The title 'Lesson 8 - Dress For Success' is one of the Doctor's social lessons for Seven in [#116 Someone To Watch Over Me]. Font used: Embroidery.
Thanks to Eos Development for the page background from the set 'Cotton Plaids', and to Karen's Korner for the template page number image.

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